![]() Green chiles and tender pieces of pork shoulder come together in this homey stew topped with grated cheddar cheese and served with fresh flour tortillas at Dunsmoor restaurant in Glassell Park. It’s the perfect fridge-clean-out meal to use up all those bits of farmers market produce that you eagerly bought and never got around to. Like that old-school barigoule, which comes from Provence, this Mediterranean stew also simmers greens, potatoes, fennel and onions in a refreshing broth spiked with preserved lemons, white wine and fresh dill. Thankfully, it fit the bill here too, calling for escarole and chickpeas to braise briefly in a brick-hued broth infused with canned tomatoes and chile flakes.Īnd another vegetarian stew that I love is Aglaia Kremezi’s Braised Greens And Potatoes With Lemon And Fennel. I always keep my friend Thea Baumann‘s Chickpea And Escarole Soup With Crispy Bread Crumbs in rotation because it’s so simple and healthy. ![]() Carrots, potatoes and zucchini act as sponges for the tangy spiced broth as well. While a beef stew might sound heavy, this one is cooked in broth flavored with fresh ginger, dried limes and chiles de árbol. That iteration of Dunsmoor’s stew reminded me of Anissa Helou’s Tharid, an Arabian meat and vegetable stew served over crispy regag bread. It then, of course, kicked off a round of other stews I wanted to make that fit that same vibe. I enjoyed the lightness of the stew so much, I never got bored with it. One day I had it plain, the next over a bowl of warm rice, and a third meal with the prescribed flour tortillas and some green hot sauce. I also tossed in some halved market cherry tomatoes at the very end, in lieu of the larger tomatoes, to add extra acidity to the stew. While Dunsmoor’s stew may more be a showcase for pork and green chiles, I cooked the stew one more time after I was done testing it, swapping out its regular yellow onions for spring onion bulbs that I bought at the market a few days prior. It reminded me of those barigoule-cooking days, which coincided appropriately with spring while I was in school, and how it felt like all I wanted to eat at that time. In it, chef-owner Brian Dunsmoor recounts how he and his cooks will brown the meat and vegetables for the stew less and not reduce the liquid so much when he wants a lighter, brighter-tasting stew for warmer months. ![]() I was thinking of that barigoule while testing Dunsmoor’s Pork And Green Chile Stew for my recent profile of the dish. You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
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